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An entire morning was spent hacking through spider-infested mangrove swamps to reach their camp, only to be told that our scheduled interview is off because they don’t have their uniforms with them. “No, man, he’s right—I think I saw an elbow,” says Carlos Villalon, a Chilean photojournalist who’s traveling with me. The men are weak from days of traveling in muggy, 90-degree temperatures, subsisting on crackers and gulping river water. For all they know, we’re Colombian authorities about to arrest them, or bush thugs ready to strip them of their remaining cash, stitched inside the lining of their pants.Carlos, 50, has a knack for busting my balls at the worst moments, but he’s already standing up, camera in hand. ” There’s no problem, I assure him as I approach the canoe, which is nearly scraping the bottom of the low-running river. Jafar starts to cry, triggering an outburst of desperate pleas from the men.

Our attempted trip is possible only because we’re traveling with the permission of the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC), the Marxist rebels who control access to the most direct line through the Gap—an unmarked, 50-mile, south-to-north route that’s also used to move weapons and cocaine.Following months of negotiations, FARC commanders based in Havana have agreed to let us attempt the trek and visit a guerrilla camp, so long as we keep the main focus on migration, not politics. I turn around and see nothing but a wall of dark, unruly jungle, then I slump back into the bow of the canoe.Five days we’ve been out here, waiting for a group of foreigners to appear on this godforsaken smuggler’s route in the Darién Gap, and all we have to show for it is sunburn and trench foot. For centuries the lure of the unknown has attracted explorers, scientists, criminals, and other dubious characters to the Gap, a 10,000-square-mile rectangle of swamp, mountains, and rainforest that spans both sides of the border between Colombia and Panama.Plenty of things here can kill you, from venomous snakes to murderous outlaws who want your money and equipment. become more difficult, Cubans, Somalis, Syrians, Bangladeshis, Nepalis, and many more have been heading to South American countries and traveling north, moving overland up the Central American isthmus. The entire expanse, a roadless maze that travelers usually negotiate on foot and in boats, is dominated by narco traffickers and Cuba-backed guerrillas who’ve been waging war on the government of Colombia since 1964.

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